Vanuatu Food Culture
Traditional dishes, dining customs, and culinary experiences
Culinary Culture
Vanuatu's culinary identity centers on earth-oven cooking, root vegetables, and coconut-based dishes that reflect thousands of years of Melanesian tradition. The cuisine embodies simplicity and sustainability, with most ingredients sourced from family gardens and coastal waters. French colonial influences add a sophisticated touch to the traditional ni-Vanuatu staples, creating a unique Pacific-European fusion found nowhere else in the world.
Traditional Dishes
Must-try local specialties that define Vanuatu's culinary heritage
Laplap (Lap Lap)
The national dish of Vanuatu, laplap is a dense pudding made from grated root vegetables (typically yam, taro, or manioc) mixed with coconut cream and wrapped in banana leaves. The mixture is cooked for several hours in an underground earth oven with meat or fish, creating a hearty, filling meal with a distinctive smoky flavor. Each island and village has its own variation, making it endlessly diverse.
Laplap has been prepared in Vanuatu for centuries as the centerpiece of community feasts and celebrations. The name comes from the sound the mixture makes when slapped onto banana leaves. Traditionally cooked in stone-lined earth ovens called 'lovo,' this dish represents the essence of ni-Vanuatu communal cooking and is served at every significant cultural event.
Tuluk (Simboro)
A unique grated root vegetable cake similar to laplap but prepared in a distinctive cylindrical shape and cooked directly on hot stones. Tuluk is typically made with island cabbage or greens mixed into the grated root vegetable and coconut cream base. The result is a denser, more compact version of laplap with crispy edges and a soft center.
Tuluk originated in the northern islands of Vanuatu and represents a regional variation of traditional root vegetable cooking. The cylindrical shape was developed to maximize contact with hot stones, creating the characteristic crispy exterior that distinguishes it from regular laplap.
Poulet Fish (Poisson Cru)
Fresh raw fish marinated in lime juice and mixed with coconut cream, tomatoes, onions, and island vegetables. This Pacific ceviche reflects the French Polynesian influence on Vanuatu's cuisine and showcases the pristine quality of local seafood. The lime 'cooks' the fish, creating a refreshing, creamy dish perfect for the tropical climate.
While similar dishes exist throughout the Pacific, Vanuatu's version shows clear French influence from nearby New Caledonia. The dish became popular in Port Vila during the colonial period and has since become a staple at coastal restaurants and family gatherings.
Nalot (Flying Fox)
Fruit bat slow-cooked in coconut cream until tender, traditionally prepared in an earth oven. The meat is dark and rich, with a distinctive gamey flavor that locals describe as a cross between chicken and beef. Flying fox is considered a delicacy and is typically reserved for special occasions and ceremonial feasts.
Fruit bats have been hunted and consumed in Vanuatu for millennia, with traditional hunting methods passed down through generations. The dish holds cultural significance and is often served at bride price ceremonies and important community events. Conservation concerns have made it less common in recent years.
Coconut Crab (Nangae)
Large land crabs cooked in coconut cream or grilled over open flames. These impressive crustaceans can weigh up to 4 kilograms and have sweet, rich meat with a subtle coconut flavor from their diet. The crab is typically served whole, requiring hands-on eating and making for a memorable dining experience.
Coconut crabs have been harvested in Vanuatu since ancient times, with traditional hunting occurring at night when the crabs are most active. Due to declining populations, they are now protected in many areas and considered a rare delicacy, commanding high prices when available.
Island Cabbage (Aelan Kabes)
Not actually cabbage, but the tender leaves of various island plants including taro leaves and other greens, cooked in coconut cream. The leaves are slowly simmered until tender, creating a rich, creamy side dish similar to creamed spinach but with a more complex, slightly nutty flavor.
Island cabbage has been a staple vegetable dish throughout Melanesia for thousands of years. Each island has preferred leaf varieties based on what grows locally, and the dish is considered essential for balanced nutrition in traditional diets.
Santo Beef
Grass-fed beef from Espiritu Santo island, typically grilled or cooked in earth ovens. The cattle roam freely on Santo's vast grasslands, producing exceptionally flavorful, lean meat. Often served simply seasoned to let the quality of the beef shine through, accompanied by root vegetables and coconut-based sides.
Cattle were introduced to Espiritu Santo during the colonial period and thrived on the island's expansive grasslands. Santo beef has become renowned throughout Vanuatu for its quality, with the island's beef industry supporting many local families.
Simboro Cake
A sweet pudding made from grated manioc, banana, and coconut cream, wrapped in banana leaves and steamed. The result is a moist, naturally sweet cake with a pudding-like consistency. Sometimes flavored with vanilla or local fruits, it represents the ni-Vanuatu approach to desserts - simple, naturally sweet, and coconut-based.
Simboro cake evolved from traditional root vegetable preparations, adapted to create a sweeter version for special occasions. The addition of ripe bananas provides natural sweetness, eliminating the need for refined sugar in traditional preparations.
Bougna (Bounia)
A complete meal cooked in banana leaf parcels in an earth oven, containing meat or fish, root vegetables, and island cabbage, all bound together with coconut cream. Each parcel is individually wrapped, creating personal servings that steam together in the underground oven. The banana leaves impart a subtle flavor while keeping everything moist.
Bougna represents the traditional ni-Vanuatu approach to complete meals, with each package containing balanced nutrition. The method allows for individual customization while cooking communally, reflecting the balance between individual and community in island culture.
Coconut Bread
Dense, slightly sweet bread made with fresh grated coconut and coconut cream, baked in traditional ovens or modern bakeries. The bread has a moist, cake-like texture and rich coconut flavor, often eaten for breakfast with butter or jam. The French influence is evident in the baking technique, while the coconut makes it distinctly Pacific.
Coconut bread emerged from the fusion of French baking traditions and local ingredients during the colonial period. It has become a breakfast staple across Vanuatu, found in every bakery and many households.
Nalot Soup
A rich broth made from simmering root vegetables, island greens, and sometimes seafood or meat in coconut cream. The soup is hearty and filling, with the coconut providing richness while the vegetables add substance. It's often prepared for breakfast or as a light evening meal.
Traditional soups in Vanuatu evolved as a way to use every part of harvested vegetables and to create warming meals during cooler months. The addition of coconut cream is a signature element that distinguishes ni-Vanuatu soups from other Pacific island variations.
Pawpaw (Papaya) Salad
Fresh green papaya shredded and mixed with lime juice, chili, tomatoes, and sometimes dried fish or shrimp. This refreshing salad shows Southeast Asian influence, likely introduced by Vietnamese immigrants. The crunchy texture and spicy-sour flavor profile provides a perfect contrast to rich coconut-based main dishes.
Pawpaw salad became popular in Vanuatu through cultural exchange with Southeast Asian communities. While not traditionally ni-Vanuatu, it has been adopted and adapted to local tastes, often appearing at modern gatherings alongside traditional dishes.
Taste Vanuatu's Best Flavors
A food tour is the fastest way to find good spots. Sample traditional dishes and learn from guides who know the neighborhood.
Browse Food ToursDining Etiquette
Dining in Vanuatu is a relaxed, communal experience where kastom (traditional customs) blend with colonial-era European etiquette. Meals are social occasions meant for connection and conversation, never rushed. Understanding basic ni-Vanuatu customs will enhance your dining experience and show respect for local culture.
Communal Eating
Traditional ni-Vanuatu meals are communal affairs where food is shared from common plates or banana leaves spread on the ground. At village feasts, you may be invited to sit on woven mats and eat with your hands. In more formal or tourist-oriented settings, individual plates and Western utensils are provided, but the communal spirit remains.
Do
- Accept food offerings graciously - refusing can be seen as offensive
- Wait for elders or hosts to begin eating before you start
- Use your right hand when eating with hands
- Compliment the food and thank your hosts
Don't
- Don't start eating before everyone is served
- Don't waste food - take only what you can finish
- Don't rush through meals
- Don't use your left hand for eating in traditional settings
Kava Ceremonies
Kava, a traditional drink made from the root of the kava plant, is central to ni-Vanuatu social life. While not food, kava bars (nakamals) are important social venues. The drink has a slightly numbing, earthy taste and mild sedative effects. Visitors are welcome to participate, and doing so is a meaningful cultural experience. Kava is drunk at sunset and into the evening.
Do
- Drink the entire shell of kava in one go
- Clap once before receiving and once after drinking
- Dress modestly when visiting nakamals
- Spit if you need to - it's considered normal
Don't
- Don't sip kava slowly
- Don't bring alcohol to nakamals
- Don't be loud or rowdy - kava sessions are contemplative
- Don't take photos without permission
Restaurant Behavior
In Port Vila and Luganville, restaurants range from casual local eateries to upscale French-influenced establishments. Service follows 'island time' - meals take longer than in Western countries, but this is intentional, not poor service. Dress codes are generally casual, though upscale resort restaurants may expect smart casual attire for dinner.
Do
- Be patient with service - rushing is considered rude
- Make reservations at popular restaurants, especially on weekends
- Dress neatly for upscale establishments
- Greet staff warmly - friendliness is valued
Don't
- Don't snap fingers or wave urgently at servers
- Don't expect rapid service
- Don't complain loudly - address issues politely and privately
- Don't wear beach attire to restaurants unless they're beachfront casual venues
Market Etiquette
Local markets are where most ni-Vanuatu people shop for fresh produce, and they're excellent places for visitors to experience authentic island life. Vendors are usually friendly and happy to explain their products. Gentle bargaining may be acceptable for crafts, but food prices are generally fixed. Markets operate on cash only.
Do
- Bring small bills in Vatu (local currency)
- Ask permission before photographing vendors
- Sample food when offered by vendors
- Buy from multiple vendors to spread your business
Don't
- Don't aggressively bargain on food items
- Don't handle produce roughly
- Don't take photos without asking first
- Don't expect credit card payment options
Breakfast
Breakfast (7:00-9:00 AM) is typically simple - coconut bread, fresh fruit, and tea or coffee. Hotels serve larger spreads with eggs, toast, and sometimes laplap. Many locals eat a light breakfast and save their appetite for a substantial lunch.
Lunch
Lunch (12:00-2:00 PM) is the main meal of the day for many ni-Vanuatu families. Markets and local eateries are busiest during this time. Expect hearty portions of root vegetables, rice, and meat or fish. Businesses often close for extended lunch breaks.
Dinner
Dinner (6:00-8:00 PM) can be lighter than lunch in traditional households, though restaurants serve full meals. Many locals attend kava bars after dinner rather than eating large evening meals. Resort restaurants serve dinner later, catering to tourist schedules.
Tipping Guide
Restaurants: Tipping is not traditionally expected or required in Vanuatu. Some upscale restaurants may add a 10% service charge automatically. If service is exceptional and no service charge is included, leaving 5-10% is appreciated but not obligatory.
Cafes: Tipping is not expected at cafes. Rounding up the bill or leaving small change is a nice gesture but entirely optional.
Bars: No tipping expected at bars or nakamals. At kava bars, simply pay the posted price per shell. At regular bars, buying a round for staff is more appreciated than cash tips.
Vanuatu has a no-tipping culture. Staff are paid wages and don't rely on tips. Excessive tipping can actually create uncomfortable situations or set problematic precedents. If you want to show appreciation, a sincere thank you and compliment means more than money.
Street Food
Vanuatu doesn't have a traditional street food culture in the way Asian or Latin American countries do. Instead, food is primarily sold at established markets, small family-run shops called 'stoa,' and mobile vendors who set up at regular locations. The closest equivalent to street food is found at Port Vila's main market and various market houses throughout the islands, where vendors sell prepared foods, fresh fruits, and snacks. Evening food vendors appear near nakamals (kava bars) selling grilled items and simple meals to accompany kava drinking. The food scene is casual and accessible, with most prepared foods sold during market hours (early morning to mid-afternoon) rather than throughout the day and night.
Grilled Fish on Stick
Fresh reef fish marinated in lime and salt, skewered and grilled over coconut husk coals. The fish is crispy on the outside, tender inside, with a smoky flavor. Usually served with a simple lime and chili sauce.
Port Vila market, Luganville market, and evening vendors near nakamals
300-500 VUV (approximately $2.50-4 USD)Laplap Parcels
Small portions of laplap wrapped in banana leaves, sold as individual servings. These can be eaten on the go and come in various flavors - plain, with meat, or with island cabbage mixed in.
Market houses throughout Port Vila and other towns, morning markets
150-300 VUV (approximately $1.25-2.50 USD)Fresh Coconut
Young green coconuts opened with a machete for drinking, followed by scraping out the soft flesh. Incredibly refreshing in the tropical heat and completely natural. Vendors will prepare it while you wait.
Markets, roadside vendors, and beach areas throughout the islands
100-150 VUV (approximately $0.85-1.25 USD)Fried Banana or Breadfruit
Sliced plantains or breadfruit deep-fried until golden and crispy. Sometimes dusted with sugar, sometimes left savory. A popular snack that's filling and inexpensive.
Market vendors, small shops, and mobile vendors near schools
100-200 VUV (approximately $0.85-1.70 USD)Island Doughnuts (Donat)
French-influenced fried dough balls, sometimes filled with coconut or banana, dusted with sugar. Best eaten fresh and warm from the oil. These show the lasting French bakery influence.
Bakeries, market stalls, and morning vendors in Port Vila and Luganville
50-100 VUV each (approximately $0.40-0.85 USD)Grilled Chicken Wings
Chicken wings marinated in soy sauce, garlic, and local spices, grilled over coals. Popular evening food sold near kava bars, providing something substantial to eat while drinking kava.
Evening vendors near nakamals, especially in Port Vila
200-400 VUV for 3-4 wings (approximately $1.70-3.40 USD)Best Areas for Street Food
Port Vila Main Market
Known for: The largest concentration of food vendors in Vanuatu, offering fresh produce, prepared laplap, grilled fish, tropical fruits, and coconut products. The market is the heart of Port Vila's food scene.
Best time: Early morning (6:00-8:00 AM) for the best selection; Saturday mornings are particularly vibrant with the most vendors
Luganville Market
Known for: Santo's main market offers similar variety to Port Vila but with a more local, less touristy atmosphere. Known for excellent fresh seafood and Santo beef.
Best time: Morning hours (7:00-11:00 AM), particularly busy on Wednesday and Saturday
Seaside Nakamal Area (Port Vila)
Known for: Several nakamals along the waterfront attract evening food vendors selling grilled items, fried foods, and simple meals to accompany kava drinking.
Best time: Evening (5:00-9:00 PM) when kava bars are active
Mele Village Market
Known for: A smaller, authentic village market about 15 minutes from Port Vila, offering traditional foods prepared by local families. Less tourist-oriented with very reasonable prices.
Best time: Mid-morning (8:00-11:00 AM) on market days (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday)
Dining by Budget
Dining costs in Vanuatu vary significantly depending on though rates fluctuate). Eating like locals at markets and small eateries is remarkably affordable, while imported foods and resort dining can be expensive. Port Vila and Luganville have the most dining options across all price ranges, while outer islands offer mainly budget-friendly local food.
Budget-Friendly
Typical meal: 300-800 VUV ($2.50-7 USD) per meal
- Shop at main markets early morning for best prices and selection
- Buy fruit and vegetables directly from vendors for lowest prices
- Eat your main meal at lunch when markets have freshly prepared food
- Drink tap water (safe in Port Vila and Luganville) or buy large bottles to refill
- Look for daily specials at local eateries - usually 500-700 VUV for a full meal
- Avoid imported foods which carry significant markups
Mid-Range
Typical meal: 1,200-2,500 VUV ($10-21 USD) per meal
Splurge
Dietary Considerations
Vanuatu's traditional diet is naturally plant-heavy with root vegetables, fruits, and coconut forming the base, making vegetarian eating relatively easy. However, the concept of vegetarianism as a choice (rather than necessity) is not widely understood in local culture. Communication about dietary restrictions can be challenging outside of tourist-oriented establishments, as English proficiency varies and specific dietary terminology may not translate well to Bislama (the local pidgin language).
Vegetarian & Vegan
Moderate to good. Traditional ni-Vanuatu cuisine includes many naturally vegetarian dishes, though coconut cream (vegan) is often used where dairy would be in Western cooking. Tourist restaurants in Port Vila and resorts usually have vegetarian options. Veganism is less understood, but possible with careful ordering.
Local options: Laplap made without meat (specify 'no mit' in Bislama), Island cabbage in coconut cream, Grilled or boiled root vegetables (taro, yam, manioc, sweet potato), Fresh tropical fruits, Coconut bread and French baguettes, Pawpaw salad without fish/shrimp, Boiled or roasted plantains and breadfruit
- Learn the Bislama phrase: 'Mi no kakae mit' (I don't eat meat) or 'Mi kakae nomo plant' (I only eat plants)
- At markets, you can easily assemble vegetarian meals from vendors selling plain root vegetables and greens
- Specify 'no fish sauce' as it's sometimes used in vegetable dishes
- Check that laplap doesn't have meat cooked with it - request vegetable-only version
- Resort buffets typically have the widest vegetarian selection
- Be aware that 'vegetable' dishes may be cooked in the same earth oven as meat
Food Allergies
Common allergens: Coconut (used extensively in nearly all traditional dishes), Seafood and shellfish (common in coastal areas), Soy sauce (used in marinades and Chinese-influenced dishes), Peanuts (less common but used in some snacks), Tree nuts (occasionally used in baked goods)
Outside of major hotels and tourist restaurants, communicating food allergies can be challenging. Write down your allergy in English and show it to restaurant staff. In tourist areas, staff usually understand basic allergy concerns. For severe allergies, consider bringing an allergy card translated into Bislama and French. When in doubt, stick to simple, whole foods from markets where you can see exactly what you're buying.
Useful phrase: Bislama: 'Mi gat problem wetem [food name]' (I have a problem with [food]). French: 'Je suis allergique à [food]' (I am allergic to [food]). Coconut allergy is particularly challenging in Vanuatu as coconut is fundamental to the cuisine.
Halal & Kosher
Very limited. There are no certified halal or kosher restaurants in Vanuatu. The small Muslim community (primarily Indonesian and Malaysian expats) prepares their own food. No synagogues or kosher facilities exist.
Self-catering is the best option. Markets sell fresh vegetables, fruits, and fish that can be prepared according to dietary laws. Some resorts may accommodate requests with advance notice. The Indian restaurants in Port Vila may have vegetarian options that align with dietary requirements. For strict observers, bringing shelf-stable foods is recommended.
Gluten-Free
Good for gluten-free dining, as traditional ni-Vanuatu cuisine is naturally gluten-free, based on root vegetables rather than wheat. However, cross-contamination can occur, and gluten awareness is limited outside tourist establishments.
Naturally gluten-free: Laplap (made from root vegetables, not wheat), All grilled or boiled fish and meats without marinades, Root vegetables (taro, yam, manioc, sweet potato), Fresh fruits, Island cabbage in coconut cream, Plain rice (widely available), Fresh coconut, Tuluk and other root vegetable cakes
Food Markets
Experience local food culture at markets and food halls
Port Vila Main Market
The largest and most vibrant market in Vanuatu, this two-story covered market is the heart of Port Vila's food scene. The ground floor features fresh produce, while the upper level has prepared foods, handicrafts, and local snacks. The atmosphere is bustling and colorful, with vendors calling out their wares in Bislama, French, and English. It's an essential stop for understanding local food culture.
Best for: Fresh tropical fruits, vegetables, prepared laplap, grilled fish, island cabbage, coconut products, kava root, and experiencing authentic local market culture. Saturday mornings feature the most vendors and widest selection.
Monday-Saturday, 6:00 AM-5:00 PM (busiest 7:00-11:00 AM); reduced hours Sunday
Luganville Market (Santo)
Espiritu Santo's main market offers a more authentic, less touristy experience than Port Vila. The market has excellent fresh seafood brought in by local fishermen, Santo beef, and abundant produce from the island's fertile interior. The atmosphere is friendly and relaxed, with vendors happy to explain their products.
Best for: Fresh seafood, Santo beef, organic vegetables, tropical fruits, and traditional prepared foods. This is where locals shop, so prices are very reasonable and bargaining is minimal.
Monday-Saturday, 6:30 AM-4:00 PM (busiest Wednesday and Saturday mornings)
Mele Village Market
A small, authentic village market located about 15 minutes from Port Vila, offering a glimpse into how ni-Vanuatu families shop and sell their produce. The market is run entirely by villagers selling their own garden produce and home-cooked foods. Prices are lower than Port Vila, and the experience is more intimate and traditional.
Best for: Authentic village atmosphere, home-cooked laplap, fresh garden vegetables, and supporting local families directly. Excellent for photographers seeking genuine cultural experiences.
Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 7:00 AM-12:00 PM
Seaside Market Vendors (Port Vila)
Along the seaside road in Port Vila, various vendors set up informal stalls selling fresh fish, lobster, and seafood directly from fishing boats. The selection varies by season and daily catch, but the seafood is incredibly fresh and prices are negotiable. This is where locals buy seafood.
Best for: Fresh fish, lobster, octopus, and other seafood at local prices. Best for those self-catering or wanting to see the day's catch. Vendors will clean and prepare fish for a small additional fee.
Daily, approximately 7:00 AM-2:00 PM, depending on fishing conditions
Nambatu Market House
A covered market house in Port Vila's Nambatu area, primarily serving local residents. Less tourist-oriented than the main market, with vendors selling prepared meals, fresh produce, and daily essentials. The prepared food section is excellent for inexpensive, authentic local meals.
Best for: Budget meals, prepared laplap and island cabbage, fresh juice, and experiencing where locals eat lunch. Very affordable prices and generous portions.
Monday-Saturday, 7:00 AM-3:00 PM (prepared food available 10:00 AM-2:00 PM)
Tanna Market (Lenakel)
The main market on Tanna Island, known for its exceptionally fresh and organic produce grown in volcanic soil. The market is smaller than Port Vila's but offers unique local varieties of vegetables and fruits. Tanna coffee is sold here directly from growers.
Best for: Tanna coffee beans, volcanic-soil grown vegetables, traditional foods, and experiencing market culture on an outer island. Less English spoken, more authentic experience.
Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, 7:00 AM-1:00 PM
Seasonal Eating
Vanuatu has two main seasons: the hot, wet season (November-April) and the cooler, dry season (May-October). Seasonal variations affect fruit availability more than vegetables, as root crops grow year-round. Cyclone season (November-April) can disrupt food supplies, particularly on outer islands. The abundance of tropical fruits peaks at different times, and certain seafood is more plentiful in specific seasons. Traditional earth oven feasts are more common during the dry season when weather is more predictable for outdoor cooking.
Dry Season (May-October)
- Peak season for breadfruit (May-July)
- Best weather for earth oven feasts and outdoor dining
- Ideal fishing conditions bring abundant fresh seafood
- Mangoes ripen (September-October)
- Cooler temperatures make hearty laplap more appealing
- Tourism peak means more restaurant options and cultural shows with food
Wet Season (November-April)
- Abundant tropical fruits: pineapple, papaya, passionfruit, citrus
- Lychees and rambutans (December-February)
- Root vegetables at their peak from good rainfall
- Fresh greens and island cabbage more abundant
- Christmas and New Year feasts feature special preparations
- Some fishing reduced during rougher seas, but reef fish still available